Friday, September 18, 2009

Thanks for being so great, Caprivi.

Sarah had a magical week, though not devoid of complete frustration. After a drive up to Caprivi that took entirely too long because of car troubles (though not all bad because it involved elephants and warthogs and buffalo and a zebra and lots of other wildlife) we arrived in Katima. This night included a bizarre trip to a bar/restaurant that was closed. We were with someone who knew the owner and he had saved plates of food for us. Also, he was drunk. And inappropriate. After eating cold french fries (chips), we were directed to serve ourselves behind the bar (because there was no way in hell he was going to serve us) and then told to fuck off. The entire time he was laughing about all this. It was just bizarre. That's really all I can say.

After we spent the night with wonderful current volunteers, I, along with the two new Caprivi volunteers, headed to our villages. My stop was first. We pulled over on the side of the road. I said goodbye to my comfort zone of fellow trainees and was greeted by chickens, starving dogs, some mud huts, and a few shebeens (bars with cheap home brews that aren't particularly safe and help to maintain the huge problem with alcoholism). Luckily a current volunteer was waiting with a member of my new host family. We dropped my stuff off in my hut and went on a walk to meet the village members. I can't stress enough how important greetings are in this culture. It is entirely rude to not greet someone, and generally they involve asking how the other person is, clapping, and hand shaking. Kneeling for elders is always important.

The first couple hours were completely overwhelming. The entire time I was ready to go lay down on my cot and cry, but I was surrounded by people and it wouldn't have been the best idea. Luckily this feeling passed quickly. My host family is the kindest I have ever met. They have a two year old son who loves to laugh at me whenever he sees me. I have finally got him saying "bye" to me when I leave for school in the morning, and he continues to say it until I am out of sight.

They cook buhobe and muloho over a fire. I take bucket baths in the afternoon to cool off. My bathroom is a pit latrine. The water is safe to drink. Spiders love my walls. I am inheriting a cat. My first hike was free. My school is right across the street. They are getting a new building (currently the 5th graders are in an old mud structure while the 6th graders have class outside), and hopefully a computer lab. There is a garden project. There are learners who want to start a girls club. HIV/AIDS is a huge problem. I get to incorporate prevention into my English classes. I love Mubiza (my village). It's very small, but an easy hike to Katima.

And yesterday? Yesterday was probably my favorite day. It included starting the day with a cup of tea I actually enjoyed (I know, weird right?), going to school and observing classes, packing, and heading to Katima. After eating a delicious lunch, we met up with other volunteers, drank oh so delicious milkshakes and headed to a fancy (and I mean fancy) lodge to drink beers from their bar and swim in a pool. The night then proceeded with tons of laughter, spending ridiculous amounts of money on chips and chocolate, curry and rice, cookies, guitar playing and electricity going out. And sleep. It was the perfect end to my site visit to Caprivi. I cannot wait to go back.

2 comments:

Unknown said...

Sarah, this sounds absolutely wonderful! It was so good to hear from you. Mom

Steph said...

Thank goodness we finally heard from you! This sounds like such an amazing and challenging adventure. You seem to be managing the ups and downs so well. Keep up the good progress.