Free Rides

9.27.09

Can I just say that I love Namibia?! Despite the annoyances that inevitably popped up, and the multitude of social problems that the country is working towards overcoming, this place is magical. 

This is not to say that my time here is bubbly 24/7, but all of the good outweighs the negatives.  My personal downers involve language frustration, awkward family time, exhaustion, and small bouts of loneliness.  Larger, more important issues, include the really high rate of HIV/AIDS, especially in the area I will be living permanently.  Alcohol is another huge problem here.  It’s really sad to see.  There’s no such thing as having a drink here.  You either don’t drink, or are completely wasted.  My small small village has two shebeens (bars that sell home made brews and other alcohol), if not more, and there are quite a number of people who are always drunk. (Another annoying thing about the shebeens is that they play loud music 24/7 and can be heard throughout the entire village.  Not fun to try and sleep to, but I’m guessing eventually my brain will just tune it out.)

One thing that also bothers me is the gender dynamics of this country.  It is probably slowly changing, but male dominance is so much more obvious and in your face than it is in the U.S.  Wealth disparity is also extreme.  Namibia has the highest rating on the scale that determines wealth disparities.  It’s so strange to see mud huts, tin shacks, hungry children and beggars, and then see mansions and people driving BMWs and Mercedes and fancy bathrooms in fancy coffeeshops…

Let’s not forget I said this place was magical.  So many of the people here are so kind.  Especially up in the Caprivi region, where I’ll be living.  My host family is so generous and kind and sharing is such a big part of the culture here.  When I greet the older women in Silozi, smiles stretch across their faces as they reach to shake my hand.  It’s so welcoming and inviting and I’m not worried about integrating into the community. (The only thing I’m really worried about in that sense is remembering everyone’s name and face and story.) The landscape here is beautiful and I can’t wait to see it when the rains come! It’s dry and brown and the sun turns bright reds and oranges during sunset and when it dips below the horizon the stars come out.  The morning greets me with loudly chirping birds and feels cool and refreshing.  In my village, the roosters are my alarm.  This place has grown on me.

Yesterday was especially enjoyable.  A group of us hiked down to Windhoek.  Our ride took us straight to the restaurant we were heading to.  We ate delicious Indian food and headed towards the mall.  (Yes, it feels strange to go to a mall while in the Peace Corps.)  We were almost at the mall, yet didn’t realize that, when we decided to flag down a taxi.  Seven of us shoved into the tiny car, hanging out windows, and we each paid N$15 for the driver to take us not far at all.  Kind of frustrating but my blistered feet were thankful.  We bought movie tickets and spent the afternoon in a theatre.  Our trip back was ridiculous.  We tried walking from the mall to our hike point on the B1 to get back to Okahandja, and had a pick-up (bakkie) not pulled over to take us to the B1, we would have been walking far into the night.  The kind driver dropped us off, and we waited on the high way for a ride.  We got offers from people who wanted money, and we had to continually say we were volunteers with little money.  Right when we were ready to call a taxi, because we were worried it was getting too late and too dark, a truck pulled over and gave us a ride.  I love the idea of hitch hiking.  It just makes sense.  If someone is going where you are headed, obviously you give them a ride.  We are always safe, and I wouldn’t feel comfortable doing it as a female alone, but it’s fun to meet people and enjoy the free ride.

 

Some more info about contacting me:

-I have a new mailing address.  So if you want to send me letters and things send them to:

P.O. Box 2236

Katima Mulilo

Namibia, Africa

 

My wish list includes: LETTERS, trail mix, and books (any fiction will do :) teehee), also it’s pretty pricey to ship things here but letters are always light and great.

-If you have Skype, it’s not too expensive to call me *hint hint* :) just ask for my number!

Thanks for being so great, Caprivi.

Sarah had a magical week, though not devoid of complete frustration. After a drive up to Caprivi that took entirely too long because of car troubles (though not all bad because it involved elephants and warthogs and buffalo and a zebra and lots of other wildlife) we arrived in Katima. This night included a bizarre trip to a bar/restaurant that was closed. We were with someone who knew the owner and he had saved plates of food for us. Also, he was drunk. And inappropriate. After eating cold french fries (chips), we were directed to serve ourselves behind the bar (because there was no way in hell he was going to serve us) and then told to fuck off. The entire time he was laughing about all this. It was just bizarre. That's really all I can say.

After we spent the night with wonderful current volunteers, I, along with the two new Caprivi volunteers, headed to our villages. My stop was first. We pulled over on the side of the road. I said goodbye to my comfort zone of fellow trainees and was greeted by chickens, starving dogs, some mud huts, and a few shebeens (bars with cheap home brews that aren't particularly safe and help to maintain the huge problem with alcoholism). Luckily a current volunteer was waiting with a member of my new host family. We dropped my stuff off in my hut and went on a walk to meet the village members. I can't stress enough how important greetings are in this culture. It is entirely rude to not greet someone, and generally they involve asking how the other person is, clapping, and hand shaking. Kneeling for elders is always important.

The first couple hours were completely overwhelming. The entire time I was ready to go lay down on my cot and cry, but I was surrounded by people and it wouldn't have been the best idea. Luckily this feeling passed quickly. My host family is the kindest I have ever met. They have a two year old son who loves to laugh at me whenever he sees me. I have finally got him saying "bye" to me when I leave for school in the morning, and he continues to say it until I am out of sight.

They cook buhobe and muloho over a fire. I take bucket baths in the afternoon to cool off. My bathroom is a pit latrine. The water is safe to drink. Spiders love my walls. I am inheriting a cat. My first hike was free. My school is right across the street. They are getting a new building (currently the 5th graders are in an old mud structure while the 6th graders have class outside), and hopefully a computer lab. There is a garden project. There are learners who want to start a girls club. HIV/AIDS is a huge problem. I get to incorporate prevention into my English classes. I love Mubiza (my village). It's very small, but an easy hike to Katima.

And yesterday? Yesterday was probably my favorite day. It included starting the day with a cup of tea I actually enjoyed (I know, weird right?), going to school and observing classes, packing, and heading to Katima. After eating a delicious lunch, we met up with other volunteers, drank oh so delicious milkshakes and headed to a fancy (and I mean fancy) lodge to drink beers from their bar and swim in a pool. The night then proceeded with tons of laughter, spending ridiculous amounts of money on chips and chocolate, curry and rice, cookies, guitar playing and electricity going out. And sleep. It was the perfect end to my site visit to Caprivi. I cannot wait to go back.

Let's Get Rid Of Sundays.

This is the second Sunday that I wish I could fast forward through. Long days filled with nothing in particular lead to homesickness and the inevitable question of "What the hell am I doing here?" Last Sunday was full of frustration, flat tires, the beating sun, marriage proposals by those who find violence against women acceptable, and slow driving that stretched into the night. And today? Today involved lies about aching stomachs to avoid repeating last Sunday's adventure, loneliness, an entire season of Grey's Anatomy, and waiting for the hours to go by so it can be Monday.

I love Mondays in Africa. Monday means other volunteers. And structure. And the days are full of language training. Weekdays are exhausting but enjoyable. And I can't even begin to describe how frustrating language can be.

I also love mornings. They are chilly and sunny and comfort comes in the form of instant coffee and silence. It's a nice routine.

And now I'm just counting down until my birthday dinner this Wednesday which might be full of pizza and beer and friends and comfort. Closely followed by a Saturday of traveling to Caprivi and who knows what that will bring!